Thursday, December 6, 2012

Jidai Matsuri, and what it meant for my weekend

So there was October and November.

I haven't been keeping a journal because I haven't wanted to experience what's happening to me the first time through, let alone twice.  However, when something nice does occur and I want to blog about it, I find myself short of materials.  So I'll go with pictures.  First, the trip to Kyoto with Madeline Horan, who night-bused all the way down from Akita (a long way, about 700 miles; like Fayetteville to Chicago) in late October to see the autumn leaves together.  It seems that in Japan, though, the leaves peak in late November to early December, like leafy little mutants.  It was still a gorgeous trip, though.  Neither of us wanted to leave.
Cinnamon women, outside the old imperial palace.
 I wanted to go on one particular weekend to see the Jidai Matsuri.  For this Festival of the Ages, all the town dignitaries and droves of well-connected children dress up for a massive, two-hour parade showing the history of Japanese costume from prehistory through the Meiji period.  Think Renaissance fair with a much higher median income.
These guys probably own Toyota.

They also take the mortal remains of the last two or three emperors, and by extension their spirits, for a nice stroll.

That's an emperor.
In the center, a bit hard to see,  is a giant radish being offered to the dead emperors.  The Japanese couple standing next to me was like, "Is that...a radish?"  I reassured them that it was a very pretty radish and they giggled.  So you are not the only one who is confused.


There was something for everyone!  Unless what you wanted was a picture without other cameras in it.


Cute kids! Geijin photobomb!
Tourists in fox masks!

Armor!
Poor choices in footwear!
Archers!
Impractical war banners!
Look at banner!


Pretty Ladies!  Somebody sue George Lucas.






People overwhelmed by their hats.







People who fully live up to their hats.



And the mayor in a carriage, bein' Meiji.


It was hot, and bright, and I sat on gravel for three hours in a pink pencil skirt.  It was awesome.

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Floating in the Dark; or, the philisophical maunderings about fish



Note: this is old.  I wrote it in the summer not long after I arrived, and was waiting for it to come together, but it clearly isn't going to.  I thought I would post it anyway in an attempt to get writing again.  One blog a month is a pretty lame target to miss; I'll try not to do it again.



The dark.  It is so dark around my apartment.  Humid and dark and fishy.  Old streetlights litter the area like broken drinks umbrellas on a sticky bar floor.  They are bent and shielded to prevent light pollution, which would be a nice thought if any of them were putting out light.  I can see the stars, dimly.  At first I thought I saw a comet, but I had it the wrong way round; it was a plane headed into Osaka airport with its bright front floodlight on.  A shooting star in reverse, consuming its own plume of light.  In the southwest there are strobing pink flashes of heat-lightning from behind the western mountains.  The clouds are such bulbous compact little masses, carrying their lightning curled inside like a filament.  Or maybe each is a modest chariot for the storm god Suzano-no-Mikoto (they do love their tiny cars here, after all).  Not very threatening, although I hear he's a bit of a bastard.  At least, Neil Gaiman seems to think so, and since he seems to know a lot more gods than I do, I'm prepared to take his word for it.

This really is a place of fish and fish-related industries.  My neighbor appears to have a goldfish-farm bubbling away in some half-barrels by her front door.  The whole area has crabs.  It had crabs like normal neighborhoods have squirrels, scampering merrily along the sidewalks, into and out of the open gutters.  One of my first nights here I stepped on one, I think.  Not sure what else that particular crispy squish could have been.  Most evenings I've been walking down the sand-crunchy sidewalks to the dock.  Mostly I just stand there, or sit with the sea lice and watch for jumping fish.  I can see fishermen out on the seawall casting for squid with red lights as their lures.  Tonight the wind was whipping my pencil skirt around, and how is there enough of a pencil skirt to whip in the wind anyway? 

Looking down into the dark water I wonder what it's like floating in warm suspension, a swift fragile dot on axis x y and z, a tiny point in time.  To me swimming in the open sea feels threatening; I imagine all the hungry creatures that could surround me on all sides.  But the fish can't feel that; they have neither imagination nor memory.  Untroubled by theoretical horrors, they exist in their single fishy moment, safe.  Their memory is stored in their genes, acting automatically, protein smoothly into protein, an unblemished record of survival in which only the successes are recorded.  I feel like I expend so much mental energy on regretting mistakes, criticizing my actions and affairs, wondering what to do moving forward – none of that has any place in our chemical memory.  At this moment we are a triumph.

When I was having an existential crisis this one time the only thing that got me through it was my conviction that, being already dead, I had no need to fear death.  An event with no degree of uncertainty, completely and untrendily without quantum, could surely be viewed as having already occurred.  If every dimension has an objective reality, there is a vantage point from which our lives exist as a perfect whole, complete, forever, a bubble floating in space-time.  I do realize that some rather bright people have already thought of this and named it “God,”  but I don't think the vantage point needs to be consciously occupied to exist and be meaningful.  Though that would be nifty, depending on whether the occupant/s were really our type of people.


 Note 2: I tried it again as a poem, with little more success.



See, that's what happens.   

The pier is crunched with sand, my bare toes enjoying their excursion 
two feet above the warm high tide and I hear the wet slap of jumping fish.   
Cold thrill-seeker, ride the poison air

or float there cradled in the hungry dark,
little silver dot on axis x y z.   
Shining point in time.  

You 
possible sardine of my address
you are the sum of every success, each flick of bony fan 
that kept your great-great-grandfish just beyond the barracuda's smile, 

every mindless twist by which your mother shaped
a silver hurricane's untroubled eye, and mocked the tethered sharks.   

All failures have dissolved in salt and carbon.   
Only you remain
ignorant above the void
a moment of triumph.