Thursday, April 4, 2013

Wave your flag, our grandfathers won the war. We won it like this.



This is the story as I heard it.  I’m sure I made mistakes, and maybe she did as well, but the outlines are here. 

She was alone in the house when it happened.  Her three older sisters were married and moved away, her eldest brother in the army, her next brother sent to a monastery in the country where, it was hoped, there might be more food.  She and her fellow middle school students spent most days in the city center, using hand tools to tear down houses, playing tug-of-war with ropes tied to cedar pillars.  Everyone wondered why the city had been spared from bombing so far; was it going to be the US occupation headquarters?  Still, against the possibility that an incendiary airstrike might still be forthcoming, the children worked every day to create firebreaks among the wooden houses and workshops. 

The usual routines on that clear, muggy August morning had been interrupted by an air raid alert.  Allied B-29s had been spotted on radar headed for southern Japan, but due to their small number it was judged a reconnaissance flight and no action was taken.  By the time the all-clear sounded and her parents had gone off to work, it was just her, hanging laundry by the old mountainside house, between the slow delta rivers.  She came back inside and passed through the living room, glancing out the big picture window.  It was 8:15.  She was twelve years old.

File:Hiroshima map circa 1930.PNG
Hiroshima in the 1930's.  Sadae's house was on the middle of three lobes that stick out into the sea, bottom left.  The epicenter was near the fork in the middle river, less than 5 km away; the right lobe points to the spot.
The light was clear and beautiful when it came.  Then incredible force, like a blow, violently shoving her away.  The hand she pressed to her mouth came away red.  Her hair was a mush of blood and glass.  She sat down, or fell down, and lost consciousness.

The bomb detonated almost directly over the hospital where her mother worked.  Like more than 90% of the doctors and nurses in the city, she probably died within the day, jumping into one of the many rivers and drowning, still burning, still desperate with thirst.  Her father was outside the “red zone” of total destruction, but raced toward the hot ash flats of city center to find his wife.  Everything was blackened, smoking, fire-orange.  There was a reason Hiroshima had been spared so far in the war – it was a petri dish to test the destructive power of the bomb, a test site left deliberately intact so that the full extent of the damage could be gauged. 

When she awoke her father was there, naked, face like coal, already sick.  He begged for water, but the little girl had been told that any bombing victim given water would die within the day.  She lied to him, saying that the water supply had been shut off, and went into the garden to pick him some ripe tomatoes instead.  Standing up with her pockets full of fruit, she peered through the haze and saw a garden full of ghosts, staggering figures with tattered draperies hanging from their arms and hands.  Later she realized that they had been refugees from the inner city.  The draperies were skin, slipping off their arms, peeling down to hang from their fingertips.

The wide rivers filled with corpses and not-yet-corpses, their sloughing fingers unable to climb the stone embankments.  There was no one to help her father; the few remaining hospitals were only treating soldiers.  She tried to ease his burning with homemade poultices of mashed cucumber and potato.  Whenever she tried to change his bandages, black crispy skin peeled away in slimy red strips.  He was burned far below the skin, cooked, dying.  He was gone within a few days, still calling for his wife.  Much later the family received a box that was supposed to contain some of her ashes and hair.  They said her body had floated out to sea and been hauled up into a fishing boat, cremated with many others.  So many others, who could say whose body, whose ashes, whose hair.  The rivers and canals were filled for months with bodies.  Eventually the horror, or maybe humanity, faded, and children poked them with sticks, laughing.  The 70,000 people, mostly civilians, who died on the day of the bombing had been followed by many more.  Later there would be black rain, radiation sickness, cancer.  The total death toll by 1950 was around 200,000.

Her older brother and sisters still lived and cared for her.  She faced hunger, sickness, hopelessness, and discrimination as an atomic bomb survivor.  Who would choose a wife who might always be sick, who might never bear healthy children?  Who would employ such a liability?  She married another survivor; he died of radiation sickness only five years after their wedding.  Her niece still lives in the house with the big picture window. 

Her name is Sadae Kasaoka.  Today she is a cheerful old lady, seemingly healthful, with a gentle face and the same polyester clothes as my grandmother, probably any grandmother anywhere.  She carries no anger now, and acknowledges the many atrocities that Japan committed in the war.  She just asks, tell my story.  She just asks, never again.


She showed pictures of old Hiroshima.  The new city is pleasant, its modern architecture juxtaposed against many parks and rivers, but I wonder if she ever dreams of the cozy wooden bustle of her erased city, flags and fireworks and summer yukata.  I couldn’t ask.  She showed pictures painted by other survivors: a red man with a skeletal face, rivers choked with bodies, a potato field turned into a vast crematorium.  There was a visual aid she had made herself, a black piece of construction paper with a strip cut out.  When she pulled it back, the paper underneath was blood red.  Like this, she said.  My father’s skin, peeling away in strips from cooked flesh.  The smell.  The maggots.  There were two young girls in the room that day, five years old and three, and I hoped they were too young to understand, but I believe they’ll remember.  I will.

Heard on 3/31/13.

Thursday, December 6, 2012

Jidai Matsuri, and what it meant for my weekend

So there was October and November.

I haven't been keeping a journal because I haven't wanted to experience what's happening to me the first time through, let alone twice.  However, when something nice does occur and I want to blog about it, I find myself short of materials.  So I'll go with pictures.  First, the trip to Kyoto with Madeline Horan, who night-bused all the way down from Akita (a long way, about 700 miles; like Fayetteville to Chicago) in late October to see the autumn leaves together.  It seems that in Japan, though, the leaves peak in late November to early December, like leafy little mutants.  It was still a gorgeous trip, though.  Neither of us wanted to leave.
Cinnamon women, outside the old imperial palace.
 I wanted to go on one particular weekend to see the Jidai Matsuri.  For this Festival of the Ages, all the town dignitaries and droves of well-connected children dress up for a massive, two-hour parade showing the history of Japanese costume from prehistory through the Meiji period.  Think Renaissance fair with a much higher median income.
These guys probably own Toyota.

They also take the mortal remains of the last two or three emperors, and by extension their spirits, for a nice stroll.

That's an emperor.
In the center, a bit hard to see,  is a giant radish being offered to the dead emperors.  The Japanese couple standing next to me was like, "Is that...a radish?"  I reassured them that it was a very pretty radish and they giggled.  So you are not the only one who is confused.


There was something for everyone!  Unless what you wanted was a picture without other cameras in it.


Cute kids! Geijin photobomb!
Tourists in fox masks!

Armor!
Poor choices in footwear!
Archers!
Impractical war banners!
Look at banner!


Pretty Ladies!  Somebody sue George Lucas.






People overwhelmed by their hats.







People who fully live up to their hats.



And the mayor in a carriage, bein' Meiji.


It was hot, and bright, and I sat on gravel for three hours in a pink pencil skirt.  It was awesome.

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Floating in the Dark; or, the philisophical maunderings about fish



Note: this is old.  I wrote it in the summer not long after I arrived, and was waiting for it to come together, but it clearly isn't going to.  I thought I would post it anyway in an attempt to get writing again.  One blog a month is a pretty lame target to miss; I'll try not to do it again.



The dark.  It is so dark around my apartment.  Humid and dark and fishy.  Old streetlights litter the area like broken drinks umbrellas on a sticky bar floor.  They are bent and shielded to prevent light pollution, which would be a nice thought if any of them were putting out light.  I can see the stars, dimly.  At first I thought I saw a comet, but I had it the wrong way round; it was a plane headed into Osaka airport with its bright front floodlight on.  A shooting star in reverse, consuming its own plume of light.  In the southwest there are strobing pink flashes of heat-lightning from behind the western mountains.  The clouds are such bulbous compact little masses, carrying their lightning curled inside like a filament.  Or maybe each is a modest chariot for the storm god Suzano-no-Mikoto (they do love their tiny cars here, after all).  Not very threatening, although I hear he's a bit of a bastard.  At least, Neil Gaiman seems to think so, and since he seems to know a lot more gods than I do, I'm prepared to take his word for it.

This really is a place of fish and fish-related industries.  My neighbor appears to have a goldfish-farm bubbling away in some half-barrels by her front door.  The whole area has crabs.  It had crabs like normal neighborhoods have squirrels, scampering merrily along the sidewalks, into and out of the open gutters.  One of my first nights here I stepped on one, I think.  Not sure what else that particular crispy squish could have been.  Most evenings I've been walking down the sand-crunchy sidewalks to the dock.  Mostly I just stand there, or sit with the sea lice and watch for jumping fish.  I can see fishermen out on the seawall casting for squid with red lights as their lures.  Tonight the wind was whipping my pencil skirt around, and how is there enough of a pencil skirt to whip in the wind anyway? 

Looking down into the dark water I wonder what it's like floating in warm suspension, a swift fragile dot on axis x y and z, a tiny point in time.  To me swimming in the open sea feels threatening; I imagine all the hungry creatures that could surround me on all sides.  But the fish can't feel that; they have neither imagination nor memory.  Untroubled by theoretical horrors, they exist in their single fishy moment, safe.  Their memory is stored in their genes, acting automatically, protein smoothly into protein, an unblemished record of survival in which only the successes are recorded.  I feel like I expend so much mental energy on regretting mistakes, criticizing my actions and affairs, wondering what to do moving forward – none of that has any place in our chemical memory.  At this moment we are a triumph.

When I was having an existential crisis this one time the only thing that got me through it was my conviction that, being already dead, I had no need to fear death.  An event with no degree of uncertainty, completely and untrendily without quantum, could surely be viewed as having already occurred.  If every dimension has an objective reality, there is a vantage point from which our lives exist as a perfect whole, complete, forever, a bubble floating in space-time.  I do realize that some rather bright people have already thought of this and named it “God,”  but I don't think the vantage point needs to be consciously occupied to exist and be meaningful.  Though that would be nifty, depending on whether the occupant/s were really our type of people.


 Note 2: I tried it again as a poem, with little more success.



See, that's what happens.   

The pier is crunched with sand, my bare toes enjoying their excursion 
two feet above the warm high tide and I hear the wet slap of jumping fish.   
Cold thrill-seeker, ride the poison air

or float there cradled in the hungry dark,
little silver dot on axis x y z.   
Shining point in time.  

You 
possible sardine of my address
you are the sum of every success, each flick of bony fan 
that kept your great-great-grandfish just beyond the barracuda's smile, 

every mindless twist by which your mother shaped
a silver hurricane's untroubled eye, and mocked the tethered sharks.   

All failures have dissolved in salt and carbon.   
Only you remain
ignorant above the void
a moment of triumph.

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Apparently the fun in Japan is stored one island down from mine

Seriously.
On the Yoshino River, to be exact.  I think this post was supposed to be about Sports Day, which was charming, and the Japanese school system which, I can't even, but I'm still not clear on whether I can post photos of students on this blog and students are annoyingly hard to avoid at schools.  Please stay tuned.  In any case, following two weeks of solid, cold-sweat, battery-acid sickness and misery, I got a chance to chill out and be only mildly and sporadically sad!  For this I thank my fellow Awaji Island JETs, especially the impossibly sweet and gorgeous Ms. Wendy Yu, who organized a trip for six of us after the larger prefectural JET trip filled up.  Although I so far mostly detest where I live and what I do, I feel hugely lucky to have fallen in with such a friendly, varied, and sane(ish) grab bag of adventurers.

Note the "ish."  Hi, Ryan (right, bringin' the fun in).

 After a good half-day of driving for me - counting bakery detour, gelato detour, small getting-lost detour, and the worst cup of iced coffee ever squeezed from a sad embittered bean - we arrived in Central Shikoku.  The landscape is drastically different from Awaji Island, or anyway more: more vertical, more green, the forest even denser, darker, and mossier.


The gelato detour was worth it.  Cute interior, and berets!  Because when I think ice cream, I think wooly berets!



View from our guesthouse.
We were trying to figure out what these mountains reminded us of.  They were alpine-steep, round-topped and cloud-snagging like the Smokies, with tree cover somewhere between the New Mexico Rockies, Nordic mixed evergreen-deciduous woods, and jungley Taiwan...we finally decided that they looked like Shikoku mountains.  Green and purty and unabashedly mountainous.  Our guesthouse perched on a slope far above the river, a funky old farmhouse with beams smoke-blackened by the traditional indoor firepit.  We barbecued criminal amounts of food and encountered nature in the form of tiny limes and chestnuts, a praying mantis, and a huge mukade (Japan's dreaded poisonous giant centipede) which the boys enjoyed cremating with a blowtorch.

The pleasantly rustic facilities.

Nice, individual futons.  Ryan never did get his warmth pile.
Have I ever mentioned that, when I was a Girl Scout, our troop leader skipped town with every cent of the cookie money that was supposed to take us all to Colorado for white-water rafting?  I think that really happened.  Gentry was an interesting town.  So this trip was not only a fun outing but the Fulfillment of a Dream Long Denied.  (Okay: I have actually achieved rafting once before, in the Canadian Rockies, but it was veeery gentle.  I reminded Grant about it.  G: Really?  Me: Yeah, remember that picture that used to be on our desk?  G: Oh.  Oh!  Yeah, we did do that.  I wonder where that picture is?  So obviously, a thrilling adventure.)  This trip was much better because 1) it actually happened 2) legitimate slight possibility of death 3) bagel sandwich lunch 4,5,6) BAGEL SANDWICH LUNCH 7) jumping off huge tall rocks.  The company we used, Happy Raft, was fantastic: boho, warmly hospitable, competent, and did I mention the bagels. The fresh-baked bagels (Japan lacks for bagels). 


Also the name provided some justification for my waking everyone up at seven a.m., after a boozy night, with a hearty, "Rise and shiiiine, Happy Rafters!!!"  The sadist in me was pleased.

The trip itself is hard to describe.  Eating facefuls of spume (heh heh, spume), countless waterfalls tumbling down dark gouges in the vertical slabs of green, trailing my hand in cool blue-green water. Grey, green, blue.

Shit gets real.
These rapids are no joke, though.  We didn't get to take cameras with us (though they brought mine to the lunch spot), nor would they have survived the trip, but I will post some of Happy Raft's pictures as soon as I receive them.  I'm sure I made a variety of highly entertaining faces.  My mental state at the moment sort of precludes heart-racing thrills or deep enjoyment, but I definitely had a nice and relaxing time.  Afterwards for some reason we felt the need to document the moment, purikura style, sunkissed cheeks and ruffled hair and all.

That's Ryan eating Wendy's head, Anna, and me, with Minatsu and Cain below.
If I could wear these ears around in real life I totally would.
 Then there was Italian food, obviously.  Quite a ride. 

Monday, September 10, 2012

In which I begin my chic and refined living


So, to
This is written on my ancient washing machine.  The "urban" is a bit of a low blow.

(Slim my Cafemug)
and heavy my heart as I trudge through the days as I shall now relate...

I knew it.  IknewitIknewitIknewit.  You go and name a blog something like “A Catalogue of Light” and there is no way, no way, that it is not going to turn into a bitter joke.  No way in hell.  So, as promised, I am trying REALLY HARD not to transition directly into "A Catalogue of Woes" (English spelling retained for added pathos), but it's been tough.  Heretofore undiscovered, truly unpleasant, you-really-don't want-to-know levels of tough.  Hence my lack of posts.  Really, though; would you rather have nothing, or twenty pages of existential angst and philosophical maundering about fish?  You tell me.  'Cause I've got reserves.

Cultural Incident: this morning there was a man outside my bedroom window at six in the morning, mowing hay with some infernal hand-held machine, sort of like a giant circular saw weedeater with a backpack engine.  He was then raking the hay into rows.  With a rake.  A rake made of wood.  He appears to be about 80 years old.  End cultural incident.  

 
This is Bizarro-cat.  His name is Daifuku, which means “big luck.”  He is a sweet, friendly cat, but he will NOT. SHUT. UP.  All day, all night, maow maow maow mRRa’prauw lick maow bite lick lick cuddle paw MAAAAAUW.  Is it morally justifiable for a vegetarian to gag a cat?  Even if said cat is damaging her calm?  I’ve also never had an indoor/outdoor cat before, and his presence leaves me feeling distinctly unclean.  Which echoes my feelings for my apartment.  

The hell of wood paneling.  The entire downstairs (entry, washing machine, kitchen, bath, toilet) is covered in the most unconvincing metal trompe l'nul woodgrain I have ever seen.  On the mirror, upper left, is a drawing of a baby holding a shotgun.  Caption: "I believe my justice."

Entryway.  Thrill.
Office/living room with closets, bookshelf, and scuzzy couch suffering from pleather eczema.
Other side of the same room.  I actually love the floor-chair.
Bedroom.  This is where the laundry lives.  With a tiny washer, small wardrobe, and frequent rain, this indoor line is full 100% of the time, adding some much-needed humidity to my interior-scape.  Apparently, no sheets are currently made in Japan to fit this mattress, which is reasonable because it is crap.
But I have a tanuki!  So far he has failed to crush any of my foes with his giant swinging testicles, but I live in hope.
Exterior shot; more soon.  The grass out here is now above my knees.  Those of you with schoolboard experience can probably imagine the joy of having the country board of education as your landlord.

So, here it is, in all its glory.  Narrow, metal, old, hot.  The upstairs is not bad, just a little ragged (plus one room has these creepy gray baby hand-prints on the wall).  It has been a long time since I slept in the full summer heat without air conditioning; it’s actually been strangely nostalgic.  The discomfort of the whisper-thin, spring-sprung mattress, though, is neither nostalgic nor charming.  The reason I can’t sleep in the one air-conditioned room is difficult to explain without attaching a soundfile, but I’ll give it a go.  All the walls in my apartment have round vents with screens on the inside and heavy metal shutters on the outside.  These seem to regulate pressure somehow, gently flapping open from time to time and doing so more frequently and forcefully when the weather is changing.  The one in the air-conditioned living room, however, SLAMS at irregular intervals and incredible volume.  It shakes the walls and I can’t sleep through it.  

In lighter news, either I’ve finally stopped smelling like a racehorse with a glandular disorder, or I am losing the ability to perceive my own stench.  Really hoping it’s the former.  I have a beauty routine now that takes over an hour in the morning; hair, pretty clothes I hope, full make-up, tan pantyhose in the tropical heat...it's depressing.   

I can't confirm that it makes my make-up completely, but it is a really good eyelash curler.
Have I mentioned that Japan is the US in the 50's?  See upcoming posts for more details.  Suffice it to say that I am now putting more effort than ever before into my appearance, doing it while sick and from a home that makes me feel slimy.  I've had cockroaches, slugs, live lizards, dead lizards, dead mice, really dead mice, and lines of ants.  The cat tracks in dirt and grass.  Water leaks from…somewhere.  Drifts of white cat hair clump in corners. 

I went to Kobe last weekend and, among (too) many other things, bought a little cloth carrying case for two onigiri.  If you don’t know them, onigiri are the triangular rice balls that Japanese people often eat for lunch.   

Looking cute will not save you now.  Being filled with fish, now that'll do it.
There is no way I can justify having a special container for these objects, but it's charming and purple, and I put it on my kitchen table to cheer me up.  This morning, eating my Mild Chocolate cornflakes, I picked it up to bask in the pointless ownership and a lizard jumped out, onto my face.  We are talking about a harmless, 1.5 inch gecko here, but still, there was much gender-neutral squealing.  Somehow, this incident feels representative of my life here.  So forgive my unfocused post and tune in next week for tales from the Japanese educational system, provisionally titled How I learned to stop worrying and love bombing, or, The Sound of Silence.  Please leave any questions or suggestions in the comments.  Please talk to me.  Someone has to.